A question that continues to pop up is how I make my panels. So here we go.
I like to paint on solid panels more than on stretch canvas - particularly plein air. I make light panels (1/8"thick) from 6x6" up to 14x18" for plein air. I am starting to make heavier (1/4" thick) supports for larger pieces - up to 18x24" - and may explore larger.
For the thin panels my preference is 1/8" mahogany door skin plywood. It comes in 4x8' and 3x7' sheets. I cut it into the appropriate sizes (6x6, 6x8, 8x10, 9x12, 11x14, 12x16 and 14x18") on a simple table and chop saw. I sometimes use MDF board (medium density fibre board) but the dust it creates makes such as mess that it is not my preference. I seal the boards with a coat of shellac thinned about 10% with methyl alcohol. The mixture brushes on easily, both sides at the same time, and dries quickly. I lean them against one another and snake them across the floor - often 100 or more at a time. They dry over night.
Shellac to seal door skin |
Boards drying |
I use a variety of canvas and linen types. All are pre-primed with gesso or lead. Un-primed canvas or linen tends to shrink using the technique described. I purchase the canvas in rolls. I unroll it on a work table and place a selection of the boards spaced about an inch apart on all sides and placed to avoid waste. I do a quick cut around each board using a simple blade
knife.
Sealed boards placed onto canvas roll |
Linen cut around boards |
Glue spread evenly on board |
Boards trimmed once glue dry |
I also take larger paintings that are going no where and, using a selection of frame sizes, see if I can isolate one or more small areas that are stronger on their own that the whole. If the painting was done on board I simply cut with my chop saw. If painted on canvas I cut the selected area using the blade knife and simply glue the painted canvas to a board as described above. I have, on many occasions, rescued smaller salable paintings from an unsalable large one.
Turning junkers into profit |
Hope this answers the questions.
Lots more to making paintings than pushing paint on a brush.
Your generosity with helpful information is greatly appreciated!
ReplyDeleteI've been wanting to make my own panels and because this was so thorough, I can charge ahead. Thank you Brian! You're a treasure.
Hi Brian. Interesting that you prefer to work on solid wood panels. I tried that recently and it just didn't work for me (although both pieces got into the FCA Floral show). I need the feel of canvas under my brushes. I am more of a nitpicker than you and I also love to blend. Wood or any firm surface makes the paint seem smeary to me and I don't like it. Good thing we are all different don't you think? Nice that you have shared your panel building technique as I know a lot of others do like to paint on wood.
ReplyDeleteHi Karen. Do you stretch your own canvas? I have had bad luck lately on commercial canvas from Opus and others.
ReplyDeleteI need to 'finish' a 24" x 40' space above a cement wall and plan to use mahogany door skins tacked onto the studs as a support for this project.Previously all my work has been oil painted on canvas. I am not a professional. No art school background, just an uneducated amateur enthusiast. I only paint for the color and rhythm of my own-use efforts. Thanks for advice on sizing but wondered if there is a sealant that can be painted on with oils that does not require a canvas layer.
ReplyDeleteHi. My suggestion would be to seal the wood using shellac as above then finish with a few coats of gesso. Fine for oils. Good luck. Hope you get this.
DeleteI will start prepping the wood tomorrow and let you know how it goes. Thanks. K
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